This conditioner is every afro, tight-coiled person’s dream.
It is the most moisturising rinse-out hair conditioner I have ever used on my hair. Extremely thick, and creamy in texture, it glides on smoothly to soften and detangle miraculously. Although this recipe was formulated for my afro-textured hair, I will argue that anyone with dry, tight coils will benefit from this.
Because this is an emulsion, I craved a simple yet effective and cohesive recipe. An intentional recipe that caters for the scalp and strands. Hence my pick of clary sage hydrosol is the bulk of my water phase.
Clary sage hydrosol is the aromatic water left behind after the steam distillation of clary sage flowers. This by-product carries water-soluble compounds and a gentle scent, making it ideal for hair and skin applications. The addition of glycerine and d-panthenol as humectants reinforces the hydrating tendency of this recipe. Coconut oil + tacuma butter + shea butter gave the formulation its richness and nourishing properties while btms 25 + cetyl alcohol intensified its condition abilities and improved texture.
Clary sage essential oil makes up 1% of this formulation. A concentrated oil with a more potent aroma and therapeutic benefits, thanks to its rich chemical profile, including linalool and linalyl acetate.
Why Clary Sage can be for beneficial Afro-hair
1. Scalp Health and Sebum Balance
Clary sage is known for its ability to balance sebum production. Whether your scalp leans towards being dry or oily, this oil helps create equilibrium, reducing issues like flakiness or excessive greasiness. The antibacterial properties of clary sage also support a healthy scalp, minimizing irritation and promoting a healthy environment for hair to thrive and nourish.
2. Strengthening and Hair Growth
Rich in phytonutrients, clary sage essential oil strengthens the hair shaft and reduces breakage. It’s also known to improve blood circulation when massaged into the scalp potentially stimulating hair follicles and encouraging growth, however, it is advised that any essential oil must be blended with a carrier oil before using either on hair, or scalp.
3. Stress Relief and Aromatherapy
Hair health is often linked to overall well-being. The calming aroma of clary sage essential oil can reduce stress and tension, which are common culprits behind hair shedding. Hence incorporating it into this recipe.
THE RECIPE :
This is a 500-gram recipe.

Phase 1
Clary Sage Hydrosol – 65% – 325grams
Glycerine – 2% – 10grams
Phase 2
Shea Butter – 5% – 25grams
Tacuma Butter – 2% – 10grams
Coconut Oil – 12% – 60grams
Btms 25 (Emulsifying Wax) – 6% – 30grams
Cetyl Alcohol – 3% – 15grams
Phase 3
D-Panthenol – 2% – 10grams
Vitamin E – 1% – 5grams
Preservative 12 -1% – 5grams
Clary Sage Essential Oil – 1% – 5grams
THE METHOD :
Clean and disinfect all jars, spatulas, bowls, beakers, and spoons that will be used including the surface area, with a solution of bleach or spray with 99% rubbing alcohol.
Measure and weigh the water phase (Phase 1) in a heat-safe glass jar. You need a proper scale for this part.
Do the same with the oil phase (phase 2) in a different heat-safe glass jar.

The two phases need to be heated up to 70°C. This can be done by placing them in a bath of hot water with medium heat. Note the weight of the liquid by weighing and writing it down before heating it up and checking the weight on a scale again afterwards, then add the difference to make up for the evaporated liquid.
After the temperature is approximately 70°C, bring the jars out of the hot water bath, dry off any excess water on the jars and place them on a suitable hard surface.
Proceed to pour the oil phase into the water phase, and gently mix with a spatula.

Take your clean and sanitized immersion blender, gently place it in the milky solution and blend thoroughly until you can visibly see a change in viscosity.

When the emulsion thickens, measure out all the phase 3 ingredients, allow the temperature to cool down to at least 40°C, and then mix them in. Let it rest overnight if possible before pouring it into a jar. The formulation will thicken up some more as it reaches room temperature.

HOW TO USE
On wet hair, generously coat your strands with the conditioner and comb through with your fingers or a suitable comb. It smoothens out the strands and allows the knots to be brushed out with ease.
A master detangler! and incredibly nourishing.

My hair was fully coated and finger combed.
Leave it in for 10 minutes and rinse out with warm water.

Hair is left feeling so soft, coils more defined and shiny and easy to style. This can be stored in a cool dry place, just like any store-bought conditioner or product.
Personally, a product does not need to have 50 Ingredients for it to be effective, at least that is what I think and there is something immensely fulfilling about creating your own skin or hair care products in the comfort of your kitchen, it allows you the freedom to choose quality, raw and organic ingredients and the opportunity to learn. I also think it is an act of self-love and care to heed what goes into the products we use every day on our hair/skin, especially the ones we purchase.
Thank you for reading and supporting this post as usual and here is to hoping it inspires you to try and make something today or creates a yearning in your heart.